Costão - scrambling to the top of the Sugar loaf

3 to 4 hours (round trip). Hike and a 20 meter climb (5.4)

The east face is the least steep and there, Costão is the easiest route up sugar loaf.

Its first ascent was in 1817, by Enrieta Carstiers, from England.

Costão (“the back”) is a scrambling route (or a steep hike) over the sea, with great views of the city, the bay, and even the mountain range of Teresópolis, when it's not cloudy.

Half way up there is a short and easy climbing section. Harness, helmet and belay device are needed and can be provided. Climbing shoes are optional, but convenient.

Once on the summit, we take a free cable-car ride down to morro da Urca, and then hike down in about 15 minutes.

The whole activity normally takes 3 hours. It is normally an afternoon departure so we can walk and climb in the shade.

K2 - Corcovado

3 to 4 hours (car to car) 140 meters (5.9)

This beautiful route on the east face of the Corcovado is a great classic. 140 meters, brazilian grade: 4, V (5.9).

A four pitch bolted route, with a great variety of climbing on compact igneous rock. Layback crack climbing, slabs, delicate mineral/quartz face climbing and all with stunning views over the city. 

We get to the summit just at the Christ statue’s feet, usually surrounded by lots of tourists. The 360° view from there is world famous. During the climb, we face the south zone, and we can see the contrast between the buildings and the forest. A city built between the mountains and the lagoon.

"Italianos" route or Italianos with Secundo

3 to 4 hours (car to car) just "Italianos" 100 meters (5.9); or 5 to 6 hours summiting: more 170 meters (5.7)

Rio's most popular route of its grade (5.9), The Italians' route goes straight up the middle of the west face of the Sugar Loaf. It's quite a vertical wall, with great views of Rio, which only get better as you climb.

The approach to the west face takes about 30 minutes.

There are three pitches of face climbing on small holds and crimps at 5.9. A couple of 5.10 moves make the crux.

It is possible to summit by climbing the last four pitches of the route Secundo (5.7), or taking a via ferrata (named CEPI).

To descend we take a free cable-car ride to morro da Urca, and then hike down in about 15 minutes.

Ideally climbed in the morning, due to the shade.

Routes on Babilonia Hill

3 to 4 hours (car to car). 150 to 200 meters (5.3 to 5.10)

Easy to moderate routes (many options) with the shortest access trail in Rio.

Mostly on face climbing, "Morro da Babilônia" is a good choice to have the first contact to Rio's rocks, bolts and graduation.

"Morro da Babilônia" is a great choice for anyone wanting a first taste of Rio Rock. With grades from 5.3 to 5.10 (crux), these routes have 3 to 4 pitches, mostly on good holds. Easy to rapel, and with a great view of the Sugar Loaf, nearby.

Since it has little vegetation,this crag gets dry in few hours, after rain.

A document with a photo is needed, to reach the trail. It remains at the reception desk during your climb.

Irmão Menor do Leblon - Route: O Sorriso do Lagarto

4 hours (car to car). 100 meters to the summit (5.9 / 5.10d)

"O Sorriso do Lagarto" is the shortest face climbing route that takes you to the summit of Irmão Menor (the shorter of "the two brothers"). 

The walk starts in "Parque dos Penhascos 2 Irmãos", at Leblon, and takes up to 40 minutes.

The route is technical, has some vertical sections, and at the end leads to the summit, with a great view of Irmão Maior, the beaches, the lagoon, Pedra da Gávea and Corcovado.

The descent is by rapel, on the same route. Then a hike back to the park.

In the shade during the morning, especially in the summer.

 

 

Dedo de Deus

8 hours + the road trip. Steep 2 hour trail, easy route (5.6)

The first ascent of Dedo de Deus was by locals and became a symbol of brazilian montaineering. 

It is 1:30 hours from Rio, by car. Then we follow a steep trail, with several steel cables on the second half of the approach (some climbers prefer to use work gloves here). It take around 2 hours to reach the thumb and the pointing finger at the start of our mountain route. At this point, the most demanding section (the aproach) is over, and we can enjoy the climb.

The "East Face" is the easiest route on Dedo de Deus. Brazilian old school: some easy to moderate chimneys, friction, foot holds and some run outs. 

An amazing summit. Spectacular views of the mountain range all around. It's definitely worth it.

Chimney Stop

5 to 6 hours (5.6 240 meters)

This classic route goes inside a crack on the south face of the Sugar Loaf. It is mostly on chimney, except for the first and the last pitches.

First ascent in 1944, it was the second route to reach the top of the Sugar Loaf.  This is a very good training for those planning to climb the God's Finger.

In the shade during the morning.

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Guided Climbs

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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© 2016 por MIGUEL MONTEZA